Carlin - Milão e Paris: análise desfiles Outono.Inverno 2016/17
Rarely the difference in style has been so remarkable between the beginning of the shows in NY and the end one month later in Paris. The dark ambiance of the Big Apple catwalks has been lighted-up by the fashion-pleasure of Milano and the creative surges of Paris, driven by the emergence of a new designer generation.
The considerable impact of the Vêtements collective, the Off-White presentation of Virgil Abloh and the emergence of edgy labels like Koché have largely contributed to get things moving and underline the creative leadership of Paris:
This meeting at the top of streetwear and Parisian luxury is one of the key points of this season, probably the most avant-garde one.
The sporty references are still important this season, in a more graphic and colorful version and items sometimes directly taken from sports like at Balenciaga and Vuitton, or by twisting the house codes like at Courrèges:
To be noted that at Balenciaga, the presence of the ski-pants (also found at Marni) and that already panics the whole fashion planet.
In Milano, this orientation made out of vibrant colors and dynamic contrasts takes a more dressy direction, half in between the bourgeoise and the artist, central stylistic device of Italian fashion.
This trend also helps to renew the color blocking by juxtaposing the patterns.
This color appetite that characterizes this Milanese fashion season, is also done in a more out of sync, slightly geek way, made of unusual associations for a retro-experimental that confirms Carlin’s « Reboot » trend.
A touch of humor and a juvenile approach, that contrasts with the other important trend of the Italian collections: the dark romanticism.
Black, frills, a touch of transparency, for silhouettes with a 1900 inspiration, slender and romantic, but treated with a twisted touch, which makes them contemporary, avoiding therefor the historical literal pitfall.
This trend of dark poetry took off already last autumn-winter season and seems to be continued.
Opposite to this trend with gothic touches, one can find a contemporary vestal silhouette, combining radicalism and glamour and showing distinct proportions
and sparkles of gold:
An impressive fashion, oscillating between day and night, following Carlin’s « Megalomania » trend.
Paris is burning !
Paris has always had a tropism for the 80’s, its accentuated glamour, its nightlife imaginary. Especially this season, the « couture » presentation of Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent has left its mark, while Kenzo and Isabel Marant evoke in their ways the Palace years:
A trend mostly done in black-fuchsia-red with a touch of lamé… so eighties!
A nice confirmation of Carlin’s « Distractions » and the festal Parisian imaginary.
By Thomas Zylberman - CARLIN CREATIVE TREND BUREAU