Carlin creative trend bureau: Tendências Ready-to-Wear – Moda Feminina Outono|Inverno 2016-17
today 1 de mar de 2016
Carlin creative trend bureau analyses the Catwalk shows Fall Winter 16-17, from New York to London
90’s in NYC
The New York designers have developed many variations of the 90’s reminiscence, one of the key-trends seen on the Big Apple’s catwalks. Nineties, this sometimes « ragbag » designation needs to be specified because this last decade has seen a coexistence of many directions, even sometimes contradictory. This season what we talk about is more sober fashion, of pared-down beauty and intellectual , like once conceived by Belgian and Japanese-Parisian designers , dominating the catwalks in those days .
This trend is also expressed in a more sporty way like by DKNY as for reference, this season taken over by a young designer duo after the departure of Donna Karan, herself being an undeniable figure of 90’s fashion, and like that all has come fullcircle.
The bad-girl is also a recurrent stylistic phenomenen, when this influence refers explicitly to streetwear, omnipresent this season.
The recurrent key-item of this 90’s dress-code is ofcourse the slip-dress, a dress with fine straps and emblematic for this decade ( remember : Kate Moss period of Johnny Depp, the wedding dress of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy…) and of which we have seen multiple versions from NY to London.
The War of the Romantics
We jump 100 years back in time, from the end of the 20st century to the end of the 19th, period of increased romanticism that has inspired the Anglo-saxon designers in different ways..
Two interpretations confront eachother: on the left a dark and twisted vision, on the right a more contemporary and design-filtered version.
Leading the way of the first direction, Marc Jacobs has produced a mind-blowing catwalk show recalling his farewell show at Vuitton several seasons ago, through it’s 1900 inspiration. A romantic style we can see at other designer shows and often twisted by an unexpected pop detail.
This inspiration is also done in a more innovative and designer way, notably by the sisters Mulleavy of the Rodarte label, supporters of the junction of past and futur, and other edgy labels like Prounza Schouler.
The Bloomsbury Group
As for the English designers, they have explored their artistic heritage evoking the Bloomsbury influence, supported by literary persons like Virginia Woolf, the painters Dora Carrington or Vanessa Bell, of whom the color palettes have inspired certain London collections.
This artistic reference allows to evoke ,with a certain freedom ,a fashion with a vintage and nostalgic touch , while showing the 70’s references.
Big painted flowers, the checked tweeds, the home decoration references evoke a cosy and inspiring fashion style, therefor avoiding the too marked decade clichés.
Completely anchored in time and without referring to the past, some designers develop a graphic, very contemporary fashion which reflects their personal vision of fashion. Victoria Beckham, at the top of her fashion-credibilty, personifies from now on this distinctive design fashion, sometimes even dark like the emerging label Toga or in volumes like the new-yorker Delpozo.
We can see the London fashion becoming more and more international, like the increasing notority of designers like J.W Anderson, supporter of strange and totally innovating hybridisations.
And even if their work will be presented in Paris, the Brittish Phoebe Philo at Céline or Stella Mc Cartney are not to be outdone… to be followed up!
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