28 de set. de 2015
Carlin Group: Semana de Moda de Londres PE16 – Análise Carlin
28 de set. de 2015
The London fashion-week will always remain a special moment in the succession of catwalks, like a sort of tresor island, which the calendar immutably situates between the pragmatic fashion of New York and the elegant shows of Milano.
In between those two, London and it’s fashion, completely, absolutely, madly British….!
Nevertheless, a certain number of designers manage to internationalize their collections.
If Burberry is already an accomplished global brand, designers like Mary Katranzou, Christopher Kane or Peter Piloto benefit the quick recognition of their talents in the rest of the world, not to mention madam Beckham who nowadays can be counted for one of britain’s most essential brands.
Strange and mutin dolls, roaming the stages, mixing lace in acid hues, ruffles and frills, often all in asymmetry.
Strangely enough these designers are more dark than romantic and spread a part of strangeness that infuses the fake inoffensive appearance…
The used styling codes -shapes, colours, fabrics- are representative for the London designers, of whom a certain number are experts of these bittersweet variations.
And rare are the designers, on the rest of planet Fashion, who are capable of upgrading the girly to the level of a fashion statement.
Fragments of colour in abstract and random shapes are projected on fluid dresses, like an anticipation of the higly expected encounter, between human talent and artificial intelligence.
Who pressed the random button?
What is new in this umpteenth variation on the colour blocking is the base of mini-patterns put in contrast with a mass of colour, seen at Paul Smith.
But it’s also the fluidity that renews this approach, for example at Roksanda, expert in colourful and graphic looks, injecting this season a new suppleness into it’s creations.
Our friends the 80’s
Oh yes, we were expecting them, and here they are who show up, thanks London!!!
The come-back of the 80’s, nothing else quit matters, but attention please, distrust: the London designers always had a sort of natural tropism for this kind of highly polemic type of inspiration,
Which has to be confirmed first by Milano and Paris.
Meanwhile, let’s pamper ourselves:
Yes, fashion is also a big party, something not really serious, even completely fun: and we can thank the prodigy J.W Anderson to remind us.
We are hasty to discover the new Loewe collection, of which he took over the creative management recently, under the leadership of LVMH.
The 80’s trend to be followed…? Let’s go for it!
Thomas Zylberman, RTW Women Stylist, Carlin Group
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